Living in the high-altitude regions of Gilgit-Baltistan, particularly here in the Hunza Valley, we face winters that are unforgiving. For centuries, we have relied on a unique, handcrafted garment to survive the cold: the Shuqa.
To the outside world, it might look like just a coat. But to us, the Shuqa is a symbol of our identity.
It is a traditional woolen robe that we wear with pride, designed to be oversized and dense to provide essential insulation against the freezing temperatures of the Karakoram range.
The Two Faces of the Shuqa
In our culture, the Shuqa generally appears in two distinct colors, and we use them for very different purposes:
The Brown Shuqa: This is our shield against the elements. We use the brown robe for daily wear; it is practical for working outdoors and traveling through the mountains.
The White Shuqa: This version is a symbol of prestige. We reserve the white robe for special occasions. You will often see our grooms wearing it during weddings, or elders wearing it at festivals and significant community gatherings.
A Labor of Love: The Manufacturing Process
Creating a single Shuqa is a slow, deliberate process. It takes us anywhere from 20 days to two months to complete just one robe. It is a community effort involving four distinct phases that have remained unchanged for generations.
Phase 1: Harvesting and Spinning (The Women’s Craft)
The journey begins with harvesting wool from our local sheep. Once the wool is collected, the hard work falls to the women of our villages.
Beating and Washing: First, the wool is washed. Then, our women beat it repeatedly with long, skinny sticks. This traditional method is crucial—it breaks down the fibers to make the wool soft rather than coarse.
Hand Spinning: Unlike other cultures that use a charkha (spinning wheel), our thread is spun entirely by hand. The women craft each centimeter of the thread between their fingers. It is a painstaking process, but it ensures the yarn is incredibly durable.
Phase 2: Weaving Philam (The Men’s Craft)
Once the thread is ready, the men take over. They weave the hand-spun thread into a thick, wool fabric that we call Philam. This is done on a traditional handloom known as a Khaddi.
To make a single Shuqa, we need to weave approximately 12 meters of fabric that is about 2 feet wide. It is a physically demanding process that results in a fabric capable of lasting a lifetime.
We cannot simply take Philam fabric to a regular tailor. Stitching a Shuqa is a specific skill that is becoming rare. Only a few skilled artisans across Gilgit-Baltistan still possess the knowledge to cut and sew the heavy wool so that it fits correctly.
At Hunza Art, we work with these specific masters to ensure every piece is authentic.
Phase 4: Qalami Embroidery
The final phase is what gives the Shuqa its soul. Once tailored, the robe goes to an artisan for Qalami embroidery. This is done on the edges, cuffs, chests, and back.
The Technique: The most fascinating thing about this art is that our artisans do not use tracing paper or stencils. They stitch beautiful, intricate flower patterns entirely from memory. These designs have been passed down to us through generations for thousands of years.
The Colors: We use vibrant traditional colors, predominantly red, green, purple, and yellow. These bright hues create a stunning contrast against the plain white or brown wool.
Preserving Our History
At Hunza Art, we are offering these robes online for the first time in history, not just as a product, but as a way to keep this craft alive. By making the Shuqa commercially available to the world, we are ensuring that the skills of our spinners, weavers, and embroiderers are preserved for the next generation.
Whether you are interested in the history of Gilgit-Baltistan, or simply looking for the warmest garment you will ever own, we are here to share this piece of our culture with you.
The Gilgit cap, locally known as Farxin or Khoi, and the symbolic feather that often accompanies it, are quintessential elements of the cultural identity of the Gilgit-Baltistan region. This traditional headwear is not only a practical garment suited to the mountainous climate but also a timeless emblem of history, pride, and artistry. Also Read: The …
The Hunza Valley, nestled in the majestic mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan, is renowned for its rich cultural heritage and timeless traditions. Among its many cultural symbols, the Mishaaski Farxin—the authentic Hunzai cap—stands out as a proud emblem of history, identity, and craftsmanship. This traditional cap, made from rare Filam yak wool fabric, has experienced a remarkable …
The Shuqa: Inside the Making of Our Traditional Woolen Robe
Living in the high-altitude regions of Gilgit-Baltistan, particularly here in the Hunza Valley, we face winters that are unforgiving. For centuries, we have relied on a unique, handcrafted garment to survive the cold: the Shuqa.
To the outside world, it might look like just a coat. But to us, the Shuqa is a symbol of our identity.
It is a traditional woolen robe that we wear with pride, designed to be oversized and dense to provide essential insulation against the freezing temperatures of the Karakoram range.
The Two Faces of the Shuqa
In our culture, the Shuqa generally appears in two distinct colors, and we use them for very different purposes:
A Labor of Love: The Manufacturing Process
Creating a single Shuqa is a slow, deliberate process. It takes us anywhere from 20 days to two months to complete just one robe. It is a community effort involving four distinct phases that have remained unchanged for generations.
Phase 1: Harvesting and Spinning (The Women’s Craft)
The journey begins with harvesting wool from our local sheep. Once the wool is collected, the hard work falls to the women of our villages.
Phase 2: Weaving Philam (The Men’s Craft)
Once the thread is ready, the men take over. They weave the hand-spun thread into a thick, wool fabric that we call Philam. This is done on a traditional handloom known as a Khaddi.
To make a single Shuqa, we need to weave approximately 12 meters of fabric that is about 2 feet wide. It is a physically demanding process that results in a fabric capable of lasting a lifetime.
Shuqa Philam. ©hunzaart.com
Phase 3: Specialized Tailoring
We cannot simply take Philam fabric to a regular tailor. Stitching a Shuqa is a specific skill that is becoming rare. Only a few skilled artisans across Gilgit-Baltistan still possess the knowledge to cut and sew the heavy wool so that it fits correctly.
At Hunza Art, we work with these specific masters to ensure every piece is authentic.
Phase 4: Qalami Embroidery
The final phase is what gives the Shuqa its soul. Once tailored, the robe goes to an artisan for Qalami embroidery. This is done on the edges, cuffs, chests, and back.
Preserving Our History
At Hunza Art, we are offering these robes online for the first time in history, not just as a product, but as a way to keep this craft alive. By making the Shuqa commercially available to the world, we are ensuring that the skills of our spinners, weavers, and embroiderers are preserved for the next generation.
Whether you are interested in the history of Gilgit-Baltistan, or simply looking for the warmest garment you will ever own, we are here to share this piece of our culture with you.
Contact us on WhatsApp.
AI Disclaimer: This blog post was written by Ashad Amir and then refined by AI to improve clarity, structure, and grammar.
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